Sometimes, the best place to get a sandwich, burrito, or anything else with a starchy base, is a bakery. A business that crafts carbohydrates into various shapes and forms often knows best how to stuff those buns and breads with appealing fillings and condiments. That can be true regardless of the cultural background of the business, and it's certainly the case with La Tapatia in South Phoenix. With a full name of Comedor y Panaderia La Tapatia, this shop on South Central Avenue makes its dual missions apparent: baked goods and food to go with them.
quesadilla
La Tapatia occupies a standalone building just about halfway between the light rail stations currently under construction at Roeser/Central and Southern/Central, but slightly closer to the Roeser platforms. As with many businesses in this area, there is no bike rack outside, but the new apartment building just a block to the south has plenty facing Sunland Avenue. The exterior of the restaurant is hard to miss with colorful images on the facade depicting the combination of Mexican, American, and Central American dishes that constitute the unexpectedly large menu.
baked goods
Inside, La Tapatia looks a little like a diner. The space is decorated in a clean and simple manner with white tile walls and wood tables. A display case to the side showcases the daily output of conchas, pastry in the shape of a seashell; coricos, toroid-shaped cookies ideal for dunking; and assorted pan dulce. Another rack near the front holds bags of fresh telera and buns, all of which are packaged to take home. Those same baked goods appear in much of the food described in the menu, which fills binders available at the counter and at each table.
torta ahogada
The binders, which are full of photographs, begin with dishes that fall under the umbrella of classic American diner food. Hamburgers, chicken wings, and hot dogs are all offered with the last item available not only in Sonoran style, but also in other Mexican variants such as Sinaloan and Chihuahuan, which involves a topping of hot Cheetos. Packaged snack foods also show up in preparations like Tostilocos, Tostitos chips with just about everything on them, and even Tosticeviche, with marinated fish, cucumber, tomato, and onion as a top layer above the chips.
carne adovada tacos
Beyond these snack foods and diner dishes, La Tapatia serves an array of Mexican favorites. The torta ahogada, or drowned sandwich, excels on all counts: tender carnitas, flavorful sauce, and a soft telera made in house that soaks it all up. There's a bonus of a hotter sauce with abundant onions served on the side for an even more intense experience. Tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and sopes can be filled with more carnitas, carne asada, or adovada, which at La Tapatia seems to come close to an al pastor preparation with bits of pineapple and mild flavor.
pupusas
The tacos at La Tapatia are built on corn tortillas that approach the thickness of pupusas, a stuffed corn cake typically associated with the food of El Salvador. Speaking of pupusas, La Tapatia serves large ones that are gooey in some places and slightly charred in others, allowing a contrast of textures. A side of curtido, Salvadoran cabbage slaw, and a mild tomato salsa are traditional accompaniments. The pupusas are probably the best option for vegetarians here with available fillings such as beans and spinach, in addition to the meat options found on the menu.
quesabirria tacos
Quesadillas are beautifully presented with swirls of crema and avocado salsa decorating a supple, hearty tortilla stuffed with melted cheese and a choice of meat. Like so many places. La Tapatia now serves quesabirria tacos but uses traditional goat meat rather than beef. The use of cheese is restrained, adding just enough but not indulging in gooey overload. The tortillas are dipped in consomme and then fried, creating a crisp shell to house tender meat, molten cheese, and abundant onion. An extra spicy chile de arbol salsa is provided just for the quesabirria.
sopa Azteca
As extensive as the menu is, there are handwritten signs with added specials such as a cocido de res, beef soup with vegetables, and sopa Azteca, a traditional version of what is often known in the United States as tortilla soup. In La Tapatia's version, the crisp strips of tortillas are provided on the side so that they can be added to the bowl as needed without the risk of sogginess. The broth is full of chunks of queso fresco and avocado and seasoned with chilies, cilantro, and lime. It's filling but still lighter than many of the other items on the menu.
mangonada
Desserts can be found among the baked goods, but La Tapatia also offers a small selection of cold treats often found in raspado shops. Those include banana splits, fresas con crema, and a mangonada with a generous distribution of chamoy and Tajin adding a spicy flavor throughout. Fruit is also found in liquid form in fresh juices, as well as aquas frescas. A rotating selection allows for our to be offered on any given day. Classic flavors like piña (pineapple) or sandia (watermelon) are full of chunks of fresh fruit, while horchata is always smooth and soothing.
agua de piña
There are many other aspects of La Tapatia that could merit additional exploration, including fried fish, nachos, loaded fries, and menudo on weekends. The small footprint of the dining room makes it surprising that there so many choices, but the kitchen in back appears larger, no doubt in part to accommodate the bakery operation. The result is a diverse array of foods to enjoy on site or to take home with a bag of baked goods. Not every bakery doubles as a restaurant, but when the two coexist as they do at La Tapatia, it is often a successful pairing.
5436 S Central Ave, Phoenix, AZ 85041
http://www.comedorypanaderialatapatia.com
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