Taquerias are often thought of as utilitarian enterprises that are expected to be simple, cheap, and minimalistic. That desire for accessible and affordable food can sometimes become a stereotype that any food deemed "ethnic" has to be served in a hole in the wall. Taco Chelo, a taqueria with locations in Phoenix and Tempe, challenges that cliche with its artistic aesthetics and contemporary approach to Mexican food. At the same time, it retains an informal, approachable feel and a reasonable price level that keeps it comfortably in taqueria territory.
barbacoa, carnitas, and costra taco
Taco Chelo's original location is a row of renovated brick storefronts five blocks east of the Roosevelt/Central light rail station. The restaurant is identified by a sign with its name facing Roosevelt and another one with the word "Flowers" visible above the patio on Fifth Street. That sign is a remnant of the storefront's historic use as a floral shop. Abundant bike racks are found along Fifth Street south of the restaurant. Inside, the small dining room has been given a sunny, rustic look with hexagonal floor tiles, brick walls, wooden furnishings, and plenty of natural light.
chips and salsa
In Tempe, Taco Chelo is on the ground floor of the University House student apartment tower, one block south of the Veterans Way / College Avenue light rail station and the Tempe Transportation Center. Despite being at the base of what is arguably the ugliest of the new high-rises in Tempe, a drab 18 stories of stucco, Taco Checo has matched the design standards of its Phoenix location, at least on the inside. At the same time, it's not a clone. The floor tile, for example, is completely different with bands of alternating colors that resemble a woven tapestry.
quesadillas
Despite some distinctiveness in each location's decor, the compact menu is identical in both cities. There are two starters suitable for sharing. A basket of chips is presented with two salsas, one medium in heat and red in color and the other a fiery green, as well as guacamole. Chicharrones, essentially fried pork rinds dusted with cotija cheese and ground chilis, are paired with the same dips. Other items under the heading of "botanas" function less as appetizers and more as entrees in their own right. That includes small quesadillas and several other favorites.
Flamingo
The Flamingo is described as rolled tacos, but it's really more like a pair of mini-chimichangas, two fried pockets of tortilla filled with cheese and accessorized with lettuce and pico de gallo. A bean burrito is a model of simplicity but no less appealing with its grilled exterior encasing creamy frijoles refritos. Tacos are, as expected, the largest category on the menu, and they are offered à la carte in nine varieties, both simple classics and complex creations. The chicken wisely uses thigh, which retains more moisture from an adobo marinade than white meat.
al pastor, chicken, and Sonoran tacos with frijoles a la charra
Carne asada has a slight smoky char and is topped with a bit of avocado salsa, cilantro, and onion. Two other tacos use the carne asada as a base for something more complex. The Sonoran Taco replaces Chelo's usual corn tortillas with flour and adds cabbage. The Costra taco functions more like a mulita with melted cheese joining the meat inside a flour tortilla. Barbacoa is another beef option that is more tender and finely chopped. Two pork tacos, carnitas and al pastor, are offered with the latter option available only on Wednesdays.
carne asada, vegetable, and fish tacos with refried beans
The fish tacos feature beer battered fried seafood paired with cabbage, crema, pickled onions, and pico de gallo. The vegetable taco draws substance from roasted sweet potato, which is mixed with feta, romesco sauce, and pepitas. It's one of the more complex and rewarding meatless tacos around. A few tacos should make a meal for most customers, but another option is to add a side of either creamy refried beans or frijoles a la charra, pinto beans stewed whole with a bit of bacon, pico de gallo, and seasonings. The result is a somewhat smoky bean soup.
chorizo torta and el jardin salad
Taco Chelo offers two salads, and neither feels like an afterthought. The namesake Taco Chelo salad builds upon a base of romaine lettuce and then adds the crisp textures of cucumber and jicama, the crunch of pepitas, and vibrant flavors from oranges and mint. The El Jardin salad mixes romaine with equally ubiquitous kale, but the result is more original than the typical kale Caesar due to the inclusion of a gently spiced dressing, tortillas strips, avocado, and pepitas. Both salads are light meals on their own or a good match with a taco, a quesadilla, or both.
bean burrito and Taco Chelo salad
Two desserts offer something sweet after a few tacos. The Mexican chocolate pot de creme is essentially a smooth chocolate pudding. The arroz con leche is a rice pudding enlivened with a fruit compote. Drinks include house-made aguas frescas like horchata, jamaica, and piña. There is also lemonade that can be augmented with a strawberry puree that is also used in some of the cocktails. Most of those mixed drinks are variants of Mexican restaurant standbys like margaritas and palomas, many given added dimension with the addition of fruit or a Tajin rim.
strawberry lemonade
Additional choices include draft beers and micheladas made from Tecate and a spicy tomato-based mix. Before Taco Chelo's original location opened, renderings for the building renovation included the placeholder name "authentic taco shop." That wording was met with some cynicism from opponents of Roosevelt Row development, but Taco Chelo has fulfilled that description in both Phoenix and Tempe and now has a third restaurant planned in no-trains-allowed Gilbert, affirming that an upgraded taqueria is no barrier to tasty tacos.
501 E. Roosevelt St., Phoenix AZ 85004
521 S. College Ave., Tempe AZ 85281
http://tacochelo.com
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